If you’ve ever wanted to learn to weave, but don’t have space or money, then you’ll like today’s project. Today we’ll make an ultra-portable miniature frame loom (more like a peg loom) suitable for weaving small pieces such as coasters or quilt blocks.
You’ll need:
- Craft wire – I used 2mm aluminium wire from the gardening section of the 100-yen shop. You could also try using an old wire coathanger.
- Dowel, knitting needle or pencil
- Wire cutters
- Tape
- Yarn and tapestry needle
Bend your wire into a square, around 12x12cm. As you go, use the dowel or knitting needle to form loops in the top and bottom of the square, by bending the wire around it, one loop at a time. I made 10 loops at each end. Twist the wire securely together at one side of the square, trim the wire, and cover the sharp ends by wrapping with tape.
Now you have a tiny loom, ready to start weaving!
Let’s start by warping the loom – no, I don’t mean bending it out of shape (though that might happen if your wire is too soft). We’re going to ad the warp threads. For small pieces like this, you can use pretty much anything as a warp – for large pieces, you should choose a smooth strong yarn such as crochet cotton.
Tie one end of your yarn to the endmost loop (around the loop, not through it), then wind the yarn back and forth around the loops, trying to keep an even tension all the way across. When you get to the other side, tie the other end of the warp round one of the loops.
To make a neat edge, I’m going to twine the first two weft threads. This means that the threads wrap round each other, like a cord. Thread you tapestry needle ith a length of yarn, and carry it under the endmost warp thread. The shorter end should be long enough to go all the way across with a little spare at the end. Twist the long and short threads round each other once, then tuck the short end under and the long end over the next warp trhead. Twist again, in the same direction as the first twist, and take she short end over and the long end under the next warp. Carry on in this way, twisting and alternating under/over until you get to the other side. Now you can weave in the short end so it will be hidden. Of course, you don’t have to start with a twined edge, but it does look neater and spaces your warp threads more evenly.
Now you can start to weave. Use the needle to go under and over the warp threads, making sure you haven’t looped it round the edge of the loom. Don’t pull your weft tight, as this will make your weaving bow in at the sides. You should let your weft make an arch, then use your fingers, the end of the needle, or a wide-toothed comb, to pack down the weft starting in the centre and working outward.
Weave back and forth, making sure to alternate under and over. When you want to change colours, try to have your weft thread end in the middle of a row – this will hide the loose end. You change colours simply by overlapping them for an inch or two – the surrounding weave should hold the ends firmly in place.
My wire was quite soft, so I found I had to bend the loom back into shape halfway along – the tension of the warp threads was pulling the edges together. Using a stronger wire such as coat-hanger wire should prevent this.
When you get to the end, make another twined edge (if you started with one), then simply ease the warp threads off the loops and use your needle to weave in any loose ends. Because you aren’t cutting the warp threads, you don’t really need any other finishing!
I hope this has whetted your appetite – next week we’ll be building a larger more functional loom from recycled materials.
